Crane on the Brain

Clark Wolf and Daedalus Howell go mellow for melons with a celebration of Sonoma County’s fleeting late-summer flavors. The conversation begins with the singular Crane melon—its local history, delicate sweetness and place in Slow Food’s Ark of Taste—before detouring into the county’s best ice cream and news of Screamin’ Mimi’s planned new Cotati location. Clark also visits G40, a new Graton Rancheria farm designed to supply fresh produce while respecting the property’s wetlands, and considers an orchard preserving Luther Burbank varieties. It’s a lively reminder that safeguarding local food traditions sometimes means planting today for a harvest years—or generations—away.